Pivot spring/pin problem

Pivot spring/pin problem
When a pivot pin detent spring is inserted freely into the receiver, how far should it stick out (pic of mine is below)? I ask b/c I was having a beast of a time getting the spring to compress far enough to get the detent all the way into the receiver. I was using the same pivot pin tool I've used in the past with zero problems. I had to cut the spring more than 1/4" before I could get the detent inserted far enough for the pin to clear it.

Has anybody else had similar problems and had to cut the spring? I don't suppose I have anything to worry about now that it's in there.

I usually take a drill bit that is slightly undersized for the hole and make sure the hole is clear. Spring could be getting hung up on something if you had to cut 1/4" off or the hole was under drilled to depth.

I usually take a drill bit that is slightly undersized for the hole and make sure the hole is clear. Spring could be getting hung up on something if you had to cut 1/4" off or the hole was under drilled to depth.

Good advice, I do it too. You would be surprised how often metal shavings find their way into those holes.

Same thing when I first install the grip screw.....I chase it with a 1/4 x 28 tap :wink:

I had problems with my CB Lower from QD. I just cut the spring. It still offers some tension with it cut down to make the detent pin work.

I had problems with my CB Lower from QD. I just cut the spring. It still offers some tension with it cut down to make the detent pin work.

This was my CB lower as well. The cut spring seems to do the trick, there appears to be sufficient tension.

Blasting media, that took a minute to clean out of the hole. Rear take down channel was clear. Make it part of you SOP when building a lower to check the 2 detent tunnels, and chase the grip screw threads. On lowers with roll pins, to make sure those holes are clean of anything. Your build will go smoother :grin:

Blasting media, that took a minute to clean out of the hole. Rear take down channel was clear. Make it part of you SOP when building a lower to check the 2 detent tunnels, and chase the grip screw threads. On lowers with roll pins, to make sure those holes are clean of anything. Your build will go smoother :grin:

Good info Mike, thanks.

ETA: Do you know that drill bit size?

not offhand, I was at work and used my index there....it was a # drill size. :lol:

I have a lot of tools to buy to get even close to what my dad has. Then again it has been his entire life. I just don't have much. Lots of electrician's tools though.

I used a 1/16" bit and cleaned the hole by spinning the bit with fingers

My apologies. :oops: We normally clean that hole out prior to sending them off to anodizing. It would appear we got a little ahead of our selves and missed a few. Like was mentioned earlier, using the 1/16th allen wrench that is used for the bolt catch pin, two or three turns in the hole and tap it in the bench. The glass will come out. The spring should be flush with or just below the surface of the receiver once the channel is clear.

QD

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